In the Maldives your holiday begins before you step ashore. Whether you are traveling by seaplane, speedboat or local ferry, the journey is part of the adventure. The white and blue wooden dhoni that takes us to Thulusdhoo on a Thursday afternoon is packed with scooters, locals and half a dozen Westerners with backpacks. It’s the weekend and everybody is excited to get away from the hustle and bustle of Malé. We sail past resort islands, a fish processing plant, the local islands of Huraa and Himmafushi. By the time we reach Thulusdhoo, one and a half hours later, crowded Malé feels a long way away.